In 1777, a wave of European Jews began immigration to Tzfat. First, in 1777, the
Hassidim arrived, and shortly afterward, the non-Hassidic Litvaks (Lithuanian
anti-Hassidic school) began to come. Life for these people was extremely
difficult -- journals of those years speak of raw sewage running down the
streets, struggles to please the Turkish rulers, excessive taxation and
difficulties in making a living.
In addition, the Jewish communities
which lived in the town had difficulties with each other. The Sephardim, who had
been the majority of the Jewish residents until then, spoke Arabic, and could
not communicate with the Ashkenazim (Eastern Europeans). The Hassidim and
Litvaks avoided each other. Sephardim looks down on Ashkenazim and practicing
unauthentic Judaism, and vice-versa.
When the earthquake of 1837 struck,
all communities were equally devastated, but could not work together to rebuild.
Tzfat struggled along throughout the coming decades, suffering from Arab
massacres along with the grinding poverty.
But the last straw came about
during WWI, when the Turks, fearing that the Jews would support the British,
reduced the city to near famine. Young men fled as many were coerced into forced
service in the Turkish army, and hundreds, maybe thousands, of Tzfat residents,
left for America, Australia, South America, and other lands, leaving the poorest
and least-able to leave to struggle on.
With the British rule and the
Palestine Mandate of 1918, the Jews rejoiced at the end of Turkish rule, but
their happiness was short-lived, as the British soon demonstrated their
intention to appease the Arabs at the expense of the Jews. The British set up
their headquarters in the Saraya building on the edge of Tzfat's Arab quarter,
and allowed the Arabs free reign.
This was most apparent during the
riots of 1929, when Arab marauders spilled over the marketplace that divided the
two quarters and entered the Jewish quarter, slaughtering, pillaging, raping,
and setting fire to the quarter. The Jews who were able to escape ran to the
Saraya, where, even there, under British "protection", the Arabs managed to kill
Jews huddled inside. The British allowed the Arabs to continue their riot for 3
days, and when the Jews returned, most of the Jewish quarter had been ransacked.
The Tzfat pogrom occured at the same time period of the Hebron pogrom,
when 67 Hebron Jews were hacked to death. The Hebron Jewish community ceased to
exist -- the survivors of that attack fled to Jerusalem, never to return. But
the Tzfat Jews had nowhere nearby to re-establish themselves, and so they began
to arm themselves and organize self-defence. This served them well in 1936, when
the Arabs of the area again rioted.

As the War of Independence approached, both the Arab forces and the Jewish
forces declared that Tzfat would be their "Capitol of the North.
Outgunned and outmanned, the Tzfat Jews nevertheless refused to evacuate
the city when the departing British advised them to do so. The British turned
over all the high points of the city to the Arabs and then, as the British
Mandate ended, left the country.
Tzfat civilians huddled in their homes
as the battles raged day after day, but an old Czech artillery piece, renamed
the Davidka, frightened the Arab population of the city with its tremendous
noise. The Arabs became convinced that the Jews had acquired the Atom Bomb after
one post-Davidka blast rainfall, and they fled the city. Days before the State
of Israel was proclaimed, Tzfat was liberated.
Over the following
decades, Tzfat absorbed refugees from Europe and North Africa. Some of Israel's
finest artists set up galleries in Tzfat, and the Artist Quarter put Tzfat on
the map as a thriving tourist center. In recent years, large numbers of
English-speaking and Ethiopian immigrants have joined the community, and the
city today is a bastion of multi-cultural Jewish traditions, practices, and
beliefs.